I grew up in Pimville; for 16 years, I lived and breathed the Soweto air.
I survived the political turmoil of the 1980s, and was one of those who would taunt the “mellow yellows” – those menacing yellow Casspirs that used to roam the streets to monitor our township.
Every now and again, I would be overwhelmed by the teargas used to disperse crowds during riots. And there would often be days when I was forced to do my homework by candlelight because “amacomrade” had declared a blackout.
I remember our “transport” (combi) being stoned because we had dared to go to school during a stayaway.
I never imagined then that there would be a day when I would not live in Soweto.
Even though there was the general perception that we should not embrace Soweto – it was, after all, a settlement designed to keep us away from the city and the white population – it was my home and it felt natural to be part of its vibrancy.
I was even born at Baragwanath Hospital (now Chris Hani Baragwanath Hospital); you can’t get more Sowetan than that.
Although my family joined the exodus to “the suburbs” when apartheid was dismantled, I still visit Soweto every week, and the way I relate to the place has always been coloured by childhood memories.
As much as I love Soweto, there has always been a sense of liberation from a certain mould that was designed for us as black people.
I no longer love the place in spite of apartheid; I love it because it was the home of my childhood.
Last week, I visited Soweto as a tourist. I discovered a Soweto I had never bothered to explore before: more active, more adventure-driven.
I found myself wondering if this Soweto had always existed, or had been constructed for the sake of wooing tourists.
Whatever the answer, this Soweto is overflowing with history, fun, adventure and colour.
The adventure begins
Invited by the Gauteng Tourism Authority to join the Joburg leg of a South African Tourism roadshow, we were hosted by So We Too, an entity of various tourism products, all owned by young entrepreneurs aiming to share the various unique and alternative experiences available in Soweto.
Our first adventure was a visit to the Orlando Towers for some high-adrenalin action.
I had promised myself that I would stay firmly rooted to the ground. No bungee jumping or anything that would have me hanging from scary heights.
But then I allowed myself to be talked into doing a SCAD freefall – an experience that I must admit I thoroughly enjoyed.
The SCAD (suspended catch air device) freefall at the Orlando Towers is the highest in the world, so I was quite impressed with myself for conquering my fear of heights in such grand style.
From then on, things just became more exciting.
We quad-biked our way through Soweto, stopping at the set of popular TV drama series Zone 14 for a quick tour.
Along the streets, I responded with a smile to the excited waves of residents – I was too scared to wave as it would have meant letting go of the bike’s handlebars.
I was saddened by the state of a squatter camp we rode through, but am hopeful that as tourist revenues grow and tourist companies empower the community, I will one day find decent houses and clean streets.
We stopped at Sofasonke Street for a bite to eat in true kasi style. It was not my first taste of magwinya (vetkoek) with cheese, polony and atchar, nor was it my first communal meal on a street corner, but I loved seeing the excitement on the faces of my non-Sowetan co-tourists.
I also savoured the taste of the pap and skop (sheep’s head) so deliciously prepared by Mma Sithole at her makeshift restaurant at the corner of the street.
Back on our quad bikes, we proceeded to the Hector Pieterson Museum, after which Lebo’s Bicycle Tours took over and we cycled ourselves to the celebrated Vilakazi Street. We stopped at Sakhumzi restaurant for a refreshing drink, and then had lunch at Vilakazi restaurant, where I indulged in one of my all-time favourites – dumpling and beef stew.
Even during the week Vilakazi Street was buzzing.
It has to be one of the most famous streets in the world, and the fact that great South African icons such as Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu lived and walked in this very street makes the experience of being there that much more special.
Then it was off to The Shack for some shebeen fun, before heading to the slightly more upmarket Eyethu in Mofolo, where we indulged in lots of wine and great food.
In just one day, I found myself falling in love with Soweto, my home, all over again.
Thanks to Gauteng Tourism and South African Tourism, I can now share my experiences with friends and family by letting them experience Soweto as tourists themselves, with me as tour guide for the day.
